Sunday, October 31, 2010

October 30th

knee with the occ. waist se swell in the morning picked up and got choppy into the evening. nothing special but still something to surf!

note: used a 3/2.. 8'0 mini log

Friday, October 29, 2010

October 29th

AM: Waves are clean knee+ w/ occ. waist set or better, air temp has dropped into the low 50's for the rest of the week but water stay's in the low 60's. waves might die out by this afternoon but I hope they stick around for the after work crowd.



note: used a 3/2 suit, rode a 8'0 Ricky Carroll mini longboard


-Boz

October 28th

AM: Stomach to chest+, choppy with some close-out's but plenty of shreadable lines. moderate easterly current. should clean up for the pm.

PM: Much cleaner toward sunset. winds turned nw around 4ish. lost some size but very fun. clean lines and light crowds.

Might have a bit left for tomorrow.


note: using a 3/2 suit, rode a 5'8 ...lost rocket


-Boz

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

October 27th 2010

The ocean today was a mess in the east end of LB, Waves about chest to head high in the morning and gained a little more size in the afternoon. The onshore winds were blowing over 20mph and waves were provided by a Southerly wind swell which looks like it could stick around for the next few days. Look for things to lose some size but clean up a bit for tomorrow morning.


-Boz

Back in town! (yoooo)

Doesn't seem as though much has changed in the 8 years since I've been away. The pecking order is still the same. The old guy long boarders have gotten older and the grom's of back in the day now run the lineup. I used to be one of them. Still am. People still sit up on the boards watching the waves reminiscing about how good it was the day before or talking about how much better it will be tomorrow or later on in the week. I don't think it will ever change. People have nice equipment here too. Clean white boards, all the new funky shapes, expensive wetsuits and every garage you ride your bike past has an old long board or a wetsuit hanging up too dry. This is a real surf town, close to the heart of New York. Doesn't get much better than this. There are 4 surf shops on this small island and a few of them have been in business for the better part of a decade. There is a core group of real surfers that surf all year long and don't mind when it gets big, cold or ugly. Oh and it does get big and cold here.
I can't wait to trudge across the beach covered in snow with so much rubber on my body I can barely move. Vaseline smeared on my face to save me from frost bite and wind burn. Picturing myself in the glassy, off shore, overhead surf that is about to rock my world. This is what surfing in LB is to me.